Huset’s setting is a lovely restored early 20th century mansion. A table in the patio, lit by a million small bulbs like Montmartre’s Moulin de la Galette, is difficult to procure reserve well in advance. The center of the kitchen is a large wood-fueled grill and smoke pervades almost every dish on the menu. Chef Maycoll Calderon’s technique is to grill then sauce. He explains that we have a wood oven, use seasonal ingredients, as local as possible; it’s fun, simple and delicious.